David Harvey | Mid-red. Bright, in fact very bright. An awesome, profound nose. Incredible purity, complexity, dimension and purity. “One perfect layer of the cake.” Is even soft and gentle in its texture on the nose, rare in any young red wine. Smooth, high finesse palate, with massively escalating grip and precision. One of the most tannic, precise, bewilderingly good red wines ever tasted. All the while notes of cherries and smoke pervade the palate. Massive and again unequalled length. A great, great wine. Birth to death, it needs some good food, a good cellar, Soldera or Montrachet glasses. As good as wine gets, regardless of school, creed, ethical position. | 19.5

Andrew Jefford | Dark black-red and relatively clear. Attractively fruity aromas: lots of poised plum. Impressive fruit definition for a no-sulfur wine from 2011. Not complex or profound, but attractive and enticing. Rich, vivid, deep, and multi-layered on the palate, with lots of tannic complexities as you’d expect from this technique. Lovely ripe acidity, great clarity and focus. Splendid aromatic power here, too; great thrust and drive. Once the rugged tannins subside, you have a sense of non-fruit (“mineral”) interest coming forward too and you begin to think about volcanic soils. An outstanding wine, which truly tastes like a force of nature. That, surely, is the ideal for this movement, and here it works. If you want to see what the fuss should be about, give this a try. I could drink more than half a bottle of this... | 17.5

Isabelle Lageron | Quite subdued nose showing prunes. A dash of residual CO2 on the palate, bringing freshness. Concentrated, intense, juicy and serious at the same time. Finely grained but persistant tannins. Kirsch notes. The alcohol is showing through but balanced with the structure and concentration. Needs time, although I would be happy to drink it with some hearty food. A big wine, with tremendous potential in the long term. Still extremely youthful and primary. | 19

Francis Percival | Ripe fruit on the nose. The aromatics here manage to combine a top layer of red fruit with bass notes of prunes and brandied cherries. There are finely-grained tannins that emphasize the sensual appeal of the wine; the finish brings hints of raspberry liqueur. | 15.5

David Williams | Again that Etna paradox of intensity and lightness: this is enormous in so many ways— the tannins and acidity are elephantine—but you wouldn’t say it was heavy. There’s an appealing, living, breathing feeling to it, but it’s wild, bruising, disjointed, and a bit savage on the palate, the whole not quite the sum of its parts. | 13.5

Doug Wregg | Deep red color. Clove, tobacco-leaf, vanilla, and raspberry. Palate is fresh, almost sweet, confirming the aromas with raspberry and strawberry to the fore, some herbs and pleasant astringency on the finish. Finish is on the short side with the alcohol adding to the bitter sensation. | 15.5