David Harvey | Mid-red, lightly hazy. Meaty, deep, compelling “house wine” (as in my house), with a little pillow of CO2 present as well. Can be decanted/aerated, or taken straight from the bottle. Palate is juicy, bright, intense, zingy. Finish is amazingly, concept-definingly, precise and detailed. Pithy, stony, smoky all the way. It’s good for 12/15 years, maybe even 25. Unequalled length. A naturally great wine. Best decanted. | 19

Andrew Jefford | Mid-depth of deep cherry red; murky texture. The wine seems to have the earthy, funky, slightly disturbing yet exciting appeal of a wine made in that way. The rich raspberry fruits and yeasty cocktail of aromas is great. Yet there’s also a little fried-egg pong, which is less welcome. In the mouth, I find it less alluring: very acidic and bitter, with a big sheath of tannins yet not enough central palate wealth and depth to support those tannins (or that acidity). The tannins come across as dry, at least without food. Entertaining and “progressive” if not actually wholly successful. | 14.5

Isabelle Lageron | Great, perfumed nose, blood orange, ripe pomegranate, almost blood-like/iron. Wild, incredible palate. Citrus fruit, sweet licorice, aniseed. More black pomegranate on the palate, including pomegranate seed. The palate is spiky, firing in all directions, like fireworks, long and hugely complex. Utterly delicious and moreish. A complete wine. | 19

Francis Percival | With citrus and soy on the nose, this gives an impression of warmth. Definitely an umami-like character, too. There is a tickle of CO2, but the texture is otherwise silky and refined. It is the freshness of the acidity that keeps everything driving forward, although this is a wine of delicate conversation rather than thunderous pronouncements. | 14.5

David Williams | Cloudy and prickling with CO2, there’s a hint of Brett in both the barnyard whiff and the drying tannins. Both calm down with time, but there’s a sense of extremity all the same: huge, rather wild acidity, and massive intensity of piercing cherry fruit; that feeling of the wine being alive and mutable. I’m not sure it would be fun to drink. | 14

Doug Wregg | Mid-red color, slightly cloudy. Bit of VA on the nose. Dried flowers, dried fruits, lots of acid and Brett. Wine appears out of kilter. Returning to this exposes more in the way of red fruit, but still with a prominent overlay of funky aromas and stripping tannins. | 13