David Harvey | Golden hue. Light sediment. Rather like old-fashioned, mature Châteauneuf or Hermitage blanc. Heady, chestnut, dandelion, on the nose. Fennel and onion. High-toned. Fantastic to sit and smell. Nice inner palate aromas as per nose, which persist with minerality and really quite surprising length. Fully mature example. Slightly kinky; not for those who only stick to the latest vintage. | 18

Andrew Jefford | Deep, cloudy yellow-gold in color. Weighty, earthy, cereal grain scents, with some lingering dried-peach fruit. Tangy, oxidized palate—flat in style, though it has acid balance (peachy acidity) and some length. Quite a good, sturdy white wine with considerable gastronomic potential. The flavors suggest peach, white mushroom, walnut, and umami—and yes, it is complex, once you have peered beneath the oxidation. (For this tasting, I am only marking down “faults” if they are chronic and inhibit any pleasure. The oxidation in this wine would be regarded as chronic by classically trained, reductive white-wine makers and tasters, but in this case it doesn’t inhibit my taking pleasure in this wine, so I am not regarding it as a “fault”). | 14

Isabelle Lageron | Nose initially shows a dash of reduction, but that disappears quickly with a hint of smokiness / flint. Shy nose that opens onto a surprisingly generous, opulent, and textured palate. Licorice and ripe, honeyed quince. Brilliant freshness, still youthful, tight, and mineral, with a long and salty finish. Drinking beautifully now—testament to the longevity of no-added SO2 wines. After ten minutes in the glass, the nose is completely relaxed, with no hint of reduction—instead, a generous and seductive invitation to taste. | 20

Francis Percival | A gentle haze and a firm color. The nose feels like there should be some skin-contact astringency, but it is surprisingly fine-grained in the mouth; just a touch of bitterness towards the finish. The impression is one of freshness, but not a lot of delicacy, with the pithy, Seville-orange character dominating the aromatics. Weighty and monumental, if a little clunky. | 10.5

David Williams | Cloudy apple juice in appearance—some floating sediment; green apple, a slight touch of toffee and cream, and a touch of tannin; red-wine weight and chew and mealy savoriness; macerated herb and spice, and a pleasantly tart, lipsmacking quality. Lingering. Appetizing and complex. | 16

Doug Wregg | Hazy copper/bronze color; intriguing nose of dried white flowers, wild herbs, and dried brown spices (cumin, ginger); bone-dry attack in the mouth, quite austere at first, hints of scorched almonds, nice mineral strokes, and a yeasty Amontillado finish. After five minutes this opens up in the glass. In good nick for its age. | 17