David Harvey | Fully opaque young red. Ripe, sun-kissed, brambly, and blackberry jammy nose. Open and generous. Dark, dramatic, extracted, chewy, crunchy red, with massive acidity. No finesse —yet! However, this is a rare, truly natural wine, and so although one might have stylistic concerns, one can at least drink it. Good for newcomers, wine bars, for those hooked on the bigger-is-better paradigm. Will last anything from 3 to 12 years —who knows. Will be jolly good fun following its fortunes. Bravo. Scores 15 for style, 20 for honesty. | 15

Andrew Jefford | Dense, saturated black-red. Dry, cereal-like notes on the nose, plus an affronting sheer inkiness, a kind of aromatic Steadman blotch. A lot of acidity lifting off in the aromas of this wine, which never bodes well. And some old wood? Just not attractive aromas. On the palate, this is dangerously acidic somehow; that wild, loose, yogurty acidity entirely dominates the palate, though it is followed up by some harsh tannins. If it came from Bierzo or somewhere, it might make sense, but I suspect it comes from farther south. Anyway, not a wine I would like to drink at all. | 9

Isabelle Lageron | Nose is spicy and ripe, almost gamey. Palate has some green notes and pronounced, youthful tannins. Cassis and redcurrant aromas. Incredibly fresh and youthful. Savory and nicely rustic. Winter warmer, needs more time to evolve in the bottle. I would decant for an hour or so before pouring. Serious and juicy at the same time. The finish leaves a sensation of sweetness. | 17

Francis Percival | Nasty. Reduced and unclean, with hard, aggressive tannins that I do not think will ever resolve. Some CO2 adds to the impression of jagged hostility. A tart, sour finish does not win any friends. | 3

David Williams | The crackle of marijuana seeds here, the smoky herbal note dominating proceedings in an overbearing way. Unripe, rustic, rough— picked too soon? | 8

Doug Wregg | Opaque, purple-black, lots of legs. Wild, funky nose, grilled beef and hot leather (more than a hint of the stable, too). Hint of spritz, followed by damsons and bitter cherry and sweet blackcurrant juice, allspice, pepper, licorice, and garrigue. Agreeable tannins. | 17