Andrew Jefford | Dark red-purple, just off opaque. Sweet, warm, teasing, and creamy—almost anise- infused blackcurrant. White chocolate, too. Ample fragrance and lift here, and considerable charm. Intense (as so many are, thanks to their acidity levels), yet the fruit tones here are a little sweeter than elsewhere. Little tannin but no deficiency of fruit, and it will be better in a year or two, when some of that aromatic intricacy begins to figure on the palate. Light on its feet but lots to say for itself. | 90

Michael Schuster | Cedary, gravelly nose; medium-full, fresh to brisk in acidity, finely tannic; a nice length of flavor here within the slightly leaner 2017 frame, and a good length of aftertaste, too. Plenty to enjoy, then, which will be all the more gratifying given time to round and soften its edges. 2027–37+. | 89