Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve | Round and luscious, with ultra-precise tannins; Merlot adds freshness, real persistence, great texture. Only 10,000 bottles. | 16.5

Michael Schuster | Light, fresh, minerally nose; modest proportions all round here; a light to medium-bodied wine, with a slightly dry tannin for the very delicate, flowing core fruit. That said, this is sweet in flavor and surprisingly long to taste; fine, subtle, and persistent. Lacks depth and flesh, yes, but has different virtues, one of those being a lovely floral persistence—that feature of the best of this unusual year. So, all in modest proportions, except for the aftertaste. 2018–26. | 16.5