Michael Schuster | Inky; very ripe and quite oaky to smell; rich and powerful, very fresh in acidity, very finely tannic, well balanced in this rather potent style; a surprising and individual wine, it is both powerful and fine at once, full of perfume within its ample proportions, long and subtle across the palate, transparent and intense, but without any sense of “thickness” tenacious to taste, and with a great fragrant persistence. It is, not surprisingly, a touch warm on the palate, if you are sensitive to the level of alcohol, which also hardens the very fine tannins slightly. But it is also racy and delicate, almost fine liqueur- or spirit-like but without the alcohol. Quite how it will develop in bottle, I have no idea, but it is certainly a very individual, a sort of special expression of the year. Plenty to consider. 2028–50?