Michel Bettane: Earthy and mineral on the nose, tight texture, firm tannins, serious wine. 16

Thierry Desseauve: Unusual acidulated personality on the nose and in mouth. This wine associates a sharp profile with the maturity of fruit. 16

Michael Schuster: Powerful, sweetly ripe nose; strong and forceful and tannic; plenty of fruit, but you would have to like a fairly burly sort of style. Chewy! Right Bank St-Estèphe? 2020 on, if you don’t mind the tannin. 15.5