Stephen Brook | Lean citric nose: lime—has lift and charm. The palate is richer than the nose, with good weight of fruit and a slight phenolic character. There’s an attractive stony minerality on the finish, which adds complexity. The austerity gives a bracing character to the finish, too. Excellent length. | 17

Andrew Jefford | Silver-gold in color. Very taut and tight, aromatically; a bare skein of aroma; super-shy. Does it need time? Rather steely and austere on the palate. Very early-picked apples, with a little nutmeg, clove, or cardamom, but there are the merest hints. It’s not, though, aggressive in any way. Perhaps “enigmatic” is the best word. I’m prepared to believe it might be an articulate and engaging wine in five years, but for the time being it’s just too shy to provide much enjoyment. | 14.5

Stephan Reinhardt | Pale color. Reductive style. Very clear and precise on the nose, nice and elegant ripe-fruit aromas, including the pips. The nose mediates a natural impression. Firmly structured, but there is enough fruit and flesh, too. Very mineral taste from the very beginning to the very end—the salty impression keeps on. This wine is still young and will develop with bottle maturation. Excellent. | 16.5