Neil Beckett: A very winning floral and mineral nose. Direct, immediate, properly elegant, straight, and taut, but not at all angular or tart, because the ripeness and suavity of the vintage are there as well, all the way through the long finish. This will need and reward time. If this is “artistocratic” as Hervé Tucki says, it will be close to the throne ten years from now. 17.5