Neil Beckett: The malolactic was late and slow this year (not a bad thing at all) and, indeed, was still not quite finished at the time of tasting, though the quality of the wine was already apparent. Medium ruby; clean, with an arrestingly intense kirsch nose; good richness and ripeness, and great refinement to the tannins, which are firm but silken and supportive, through the long, gratifying finish. Hugely promising, with none of the negative, only the positive telltale signs of the vintage. After many years of improving his red wine, Jean-Charles has squared the circle; or rather, circled the square. 18