Neil Beckett: Pale gold. Exciting reserve on the nose, subdued but all apparently perfectly in place, hints of ripe pear and quince, intense, pure, ripe. Greater cremosity and density on the palate than the other two wines, but still with the same intensity and vivacity of flavor underneath. Greater concentration, power, and richness that needs more time to express itself fully, because there is less lift now, but the potential is clear from the long and mighty finish. 17.5