Andrew Jefford: Midnight black-red. Lovely nose... but very slabby, clayey, earthy, very much the gardener’s Châteauneuf, the rummaged-earth spectrum, the mole’s nose. Some citrus blossom drifting over the top, but almost an afterthought. And later, violets! The combination is truly lovely. Cor! Another splendidly gutty wine on the palate: rich, rich black fruits slapping themselves down on your palate like big wet cod. Dense, long, powerful, hugely “mineral” but at the same time very richly fruity. The fruit is black plum, but it holds off from being pruney. Another almost miraculous expression of old-vine fruit. Long, long finish and all the most profound elements of the flavor are in the finish, too. Just splendid. I’m running out of superlatives, but if you love the idea that a wine could taste of the earth from which it comes, I can’t actually think of one that demonstrates that improbability better than this. 19.5

Simon Larkin : Not particularly giving in terms of aromatics, but the palate offers finely balanced, savory, nuanced fruit, with notes of damson and dark cherry. A more scented style, this runs on a more taut line, grippier tannins allied to lively acidity. There is a note of alcoholic warmth on the finish that detracts from the overall showing. Just a touch too heady for my palate; nonetheless, and scoring objectively, a good example in the category. 15

John Livingstone-Learmonth: Shiny, dark robe, inviting. Poised bouquet, has a near-nonchalance in its fine fruit, nothing hasty about it, a serene layer of dark fruit with light brioche; black-olive angle. Savory start here: a serene run of cherry fruit; bespoke wine with careful handling in its nature. The fruit grows its intensity as it finishes in a most rolling way, full of round appeal. Good pedigree wine, a pleasure to feel and to drink. Harmony, beauty, and balance = the velvet glove here. Exactly what a so-called prestige Châteauneuf should be. From mid-2015 to 2029/32. 18.5