Andrew Jefford: Dense black-red. Sweet, warm, fresh, lots of pressed leaves: olive, bay, pine needle, even the stray eucalpyt. The sweetness isn’t ripe Grenache so much as the fine hay of the Camargue. Splendidly subtle aromas. On the palate, the wine delivers everything its aromas promise: It’s dense, richly constituted, full of the almost bitter oils of trees and bushes that must see out a fierce summer but, at the same time, full of the sweetness of wild grasses, and the two blend beautifully into a very complex whole. Slightly more evident acidity than many, but as always in Châteauneuf it is very ripe and very discreet. Another wonderfully classical Châteauneuf from this sensational vintage. 17

Simon Larkin : Another reserved set of aromatics here, just the sense of finely ripe fruit emerging with air. The palate is textural, showing good refinement and modest grip. An ample wine, well focused—an elegant expression of Grenache (on sandy terroir?). I like the poise here, ample volume of ripe fruit but allied to good freshness and slightly grippy but fine tannins. There is that baked, classic aspect, but nothing is overplayed. Appealing; allow some time to evolve. Best from 2016/17. 14

John Livingstone-Learmonth: Dark red, slight ease at the top of the robe. Concentrated spot of cassis fruit at the heart of the bouquet; there is a line of acidity that needs to install, and the sense is given of unfinished business on the nose. The palate has dry tones near the attack and an unconvincing ensemble, the fruit coming and going, the tannins more out on their own at the end. It seems more taut than it should be. The acidity will soften and meld—will the other components find their tune? Good question. Try from 2016 to 2024/25. 15