Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, going on opaque. Floral and truffle hints. Presents itself as very dry, difficult-of-access wine, but one glimpses a lot of wine behind the tough exterior. The nose comes through as it breathes. Very complex and far from ready yet but heading for potential greatness. Drink 2018+. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep, dark, black-red with glowing garnet rim. A big roar of fruit, though it is very rounded and evolved in style; not at all “fresh.” Classic rather than modernist in its stylistic emphases: the comforting fruit glow, all streaks and skins. (For the fruit; there is oak, too.) On the palate, this is a concentrated and ambitious wine, with wonderfully expressive generosity; round, mouth-clinging tannins, and a long, high-octane finish. A totally satisfying drink and a very good rendition of the vintage, too. Fruit precision? Look elsewhere for that, but just kick back and enjoy this wine. If you could drink a glow, this is it; a giant fruit glowworm, winking in the warm autumn blackness. Completely delicious; completely satisfying. 18

Franco Ziliani: Ruby bright color. The bouquet is complex with ripe fruits, herbs, spices, licorice, tar-and-roses notes, very broad and intense. Well balanced on the palate, very rich, with a great tannic structure, tannins ripe and solid, persistent and richly savory. Still very young, will improve over the next 10–15 years. 17.5