Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, bright. There’s a wild-fruit character about this wine, which is charming enough but takes you back to the old days. Smooth tannins and a very pronounced fruit/ acid attack give it a charm that is more likely to appeal to old-timers. Good, though. Drinking now. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep red-black to ruby rim. Warm, savory, subtle: Gosh, this is an aroma! You want 15 minutes with this; there’s just so much there. Creamy, subtle, full, very softly spicy (hints and whispers), with a great wealth of suggestions of dry plants at summer’s end; yet at the same time with mature sweet fruit implied by the aromas, too. One of the most orchestral aromatic profiles in this tasting thus far. On the palate, this is a hugely concentrated, almost elemental wine. Yet this is a matter of paradox, too. It opens very softly, and all the flavor power takes a while to lift off, though it then comes thrashing in. There is very little sense of freshness and precision—indeed, it seems almost loose and sloppy in its assembly. There’s nothing that gathers the threads together. Yet what is there is doing so much and saying so much that it has a monumental quality. Yet again I am at a loss as to how to score a wine like this—just try to try it! 18.5

Franco Ziliani: Ruby color. Bright and full of energy. Deep, intense aromas with great density of ripe fruit: black cherries, blackcurrant, plum, underbrush notes, licorice, leather, and aromatic herbs making for a ripe, complex bouquet. The palate is less impressive than expected, but the wine shows good structure, solid tannins, savory, earthy notes, and a long finish. 16