Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep, not opaque. Woodsmoke and tar on nose, also spices. A touch gingery on the palate; atypical. Rich fruit, which carries through to a longish finish. Somewhat idiosyncratic. Drink from 2015 for 10 years. 13

Andrew Jefford: Deep dark red, with garnet hints. Rather tired, confused aromas; old furniture and pruney, raisiny fruit; some VA, too? Once again, I have to point out that some tasters would find this “classic” but to me it’s just a little bit closer to balsamic vinegar than good red wine has the right to be. On the palate, it is rather tomatoey and rough-hewn; a wine of little finesse, I’m afraid, and the sort of thing that gives tradition a bad name. 9.5

Franco Ziliani: Dark color. The nose is very strange, with smoked notes (smoked salmon with herbs), neither clear nor appealing, with ripe fruit, spice, pepper, and no elegance or freshness. The tannins are bitter, with green, astringent toasty notes, no sense of terroir or Nebbiolo grapes; a modern interpretation without any sense of Barolo. 12.5