Richard Mayson: Slight CO2 spritz, slightly deeper in color than its peers, some biscuity character on the nose, with ripe apples; fresh and sherbet-like, attractive appley fruit, and good length. 15

Charles Metcalfe: A fair number of bubbles clinging to the glass. Darker-colored than most, though only 2012. Mature, toasty, appealing bouquet. Good, quite complex, possibly with some barrel fermentation. Banana, cream, toast, lemon. definitely more evolution than I’d have expected for a wine of this age, but lovely, toasty notes, complexing good fruit. 16.5

Joanna Simon: Slightly deeper color. Smoky, spicy, ripe nose. Ripe, sweet pear on the palate, gentle spritz; rounded in texture with well-integrated and lasting acidity extending into a saline, mineral length. off-dry. Could do with just a little more bite and green-fruit intensity. 15