Essi Avellan: Bright, peachy, onion-skin color. Evolved, tiring nose, with leather notes alongside marmalade and peach. Smooth, mellow palate, with dry medium length. Lacks life and freshness. 16.5

Simon Field: Peachy color, with a nose of mandarin, praline, and late-season cherry. Hints of evolution confirmed on the palate, which is soft, creamy, and sweet—a sweetness born out of maturity and quality of the ripe fruit rather than an excess of dosage. Indulgent and slightly loose-knit; old-style but not, conversely, without style. 17

Tom Stevenson: Pale peach color, with high-tone notes of oak pervading the nose and soft fruits on the palate. Nice and gentle mousse. 17