Essi Avellan: Medium-deep peachy color. Fresh, youthful, creamy nose. Medium-bodied, fruit-forward, but simplistic. 15.5

Simon Field: Soft color and aromas of the boudoir; the wine has citric notes, providing deferential support to the red-berried core. The interplay between dosage and tannin does not conceal the extent of either and also underlines their harmonious, modish marriage. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Very, very pale old gold, with flecks of platinum. Youthful aromas are refl ected on the palate, which needs a little time to chill out. I like this Champagne, but I think I will like it even more with just 6–18 months’ additional aging. 18