Essi Avellan: Medium-deep peachy-salmon color. Candied raspberry and floral notes; charred whiffs. Soft, loose palate with freshness. 14

Simon Field: Pale salmon with a partridge eye spectating; the nose is a little primary, somewhat unformed and modest; apricots and celery making for an unusual olfactory combination. The palate is more conventional, from the drier, more serious end of the spectrum, with notes of peach and red apple nicely balanced and well integrated. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Slightly amylic aroma, with Bartlett pear dominating the palate. Simple at this stage. Would have been better with another 12 months on lees. 15