Essi Avellan: Deep lemon-gold. Interesting, subdued nose with depth. Wide and rich, muscular palate. A gastronomic, winey style. The bubbles are not in a big role on the rich palate. Medium length but not much complexity. 16.5

Simon Field: Hints of nougat and maybe almond garland the attractive citric nose. The palate is quite foursquare, firm, and hitherto lacking dramatic tension and minor-key definition, which may or may not be forthcoming as the wine relaxes and gets into its stride. Indeed, on a second tasting, only minutes later, the blend seems more harmonious and complete. 16

Tom Stevenson: Lovely balance of crisp, yeast-complexed fruit and lean acidity, lifted by the mousse. Another 2004 that is drinking well but will be so much better with more post-disgorgement aging. 18