Essi Avellan: Deep orange-hued color. Soft, sweet peach-and-orange-marmalade nose. Dry palate, with faded fruitiness and phenolic bitterness. 14

Simon Field: Unusual, almost luminous amber color, complemented by an attractive nose of nougat, summer pudding, luxe and volupté. The palate has white-chocolate sophistication, a slightly surreal afterburn, and a teasing flirtation with idiosyncratic excellence that will not be to everyone’s taste. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Pale old-gold to pink-gold color, with plenty of creamy fruit, albeit a tad lactic on the finish. 15