Essi Avellan: Deep glossy orange-hued onion-skin color. Soft, with evolved dry fruit and toffee character. Sugar-coated fruitiness. Very soft; starts to be too old. Unpleasant, dry finish. 14

Simon Field: Discrete oeil de perdrix hue and a slightly closed nose of orchard fruit and apricot. The palate is surprisingly powerful—barley sugar and nougat evidenced. Slightly sweet for my taste, which undermines the potential purity of the finish. 14.5

Tom Stevenson: Too lactic for me, which is a pity, because there is some pretty fruit underneath. 14