Essi Avellan: Deep, even brown-hued orange color. The first bottle was even further aged. Mature nose; dried fruit and nutty orange-marmalade notes. Full and rich but lacking life. 13.5

Simon Field: Bizarre kaleidoscope of shortcomings masquerading as maturity; toasty nougat/ butterscotch indulgence; savory, developed, yet ultimately weak-limbed and a little fragile. Far from disagreeable, all the same. 14

Tom Stevenson: Nose unclean and dominated by DMDS and, maybe, mercaptans. This was the second bottle. The first was apparently worse! 7