Jesús Barquín: Particularly dark, almost pitch black. The nose is not especially appealing: spicy-hot and a hint of VA. The palate lacks finesse: unbalanced, unpleasantly medicinal. 10

Nicolas Belfrage: Attractively deep, opaque color. Dried-and fresh-fruit notes on nose with a hint of fresh mushroom. Robust palate of some austerity in the tannin department, cut by sweetness, itself cut by bitterness. Acid good. Classic lines; needs time: drink from 2018. 16

Andrew Jefford: Saturated, dense black-red. Sweet, fresh, refined; more secondary in style than most of its 2007 peer group, and very attractive, too. In addition to the classic fresh cherry and strawberry, there is a citrus-orchard floral note and subtle aromatic spicing as well. After some time in the glass, it grows more savory. Maybe a teensy touch of Brett, but it just serves to add to the complexity. A fine aromatic profile, in sum—one of the best. On the palate, it is concentrated, mouth-filling, balanced, classic, composed with impressive subtlety, and wonderfully filled out with tannins and extracts. A very complete, grave and sober Amarone, with a long finish and a profound, almost mineral aftertaste. Magnificent concentration, too. I’d love to watch this wine evolve. 17.5