Jesús Barquín: Serious nose of balsamic licorice; earthy, mineral notes. Slightly less focused palate but dry, intense: licorice again, with evident but earthy tannin and a long finish displaying vegetal notes contrasting with a hint of overripeness. 15.5

Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, opaque. Not coming through on nose. Acidity a bit sauvage, tannins a touch bitter, drinking slightly hard work; not improved by pronounced bitterness at back. Serious but not drinking now; may improve. 13

Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-red. Sweet, warm, fresh, and attractive, though not a lot of focus or precision. Full, rather dry in style, with ample textures and depths. Attractive in its own way, but a wine for the converted only; it just doesn’t have the freshness and poise and charm that those new to the style will probably be looking for. Nor is it one of the “lighthouse” wines in terms of depth and concentration. 14