Jesús Barquín: Slightly dull light chestnut. Markedly biological nose, with notes of fennel, wild herbs, and roasted sweet potato—very fresh. The palate is again reminiscent of very old Fino, with suggestive mint and wild-herb notes typical of long-aged Finos, well integrated during oxidative aging. Very good Amontillado of unmistakable Jerez character, very fine but also very old. 18

Andrew Jefford: A pale sandy-orange gold. Sound enough, but no aromatic fireworks here; an uneventful aromatic profile. Light, pure, true, long— it does its work and then goes home. The aftertaste is dominated by basmati/umami; there’s no fruit resonance or other layering effects. I’d enjoy drinking this anytime, and it may be good value, but it’s not shooting for the stars 13.5

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber with olive-green glint; lovely, gentle, savory-toasty aromas, a hint of almond and hazelnut; lithe and sinewy, powerful, focused yet gentle, with a long savory finish that goes on and on. Very elegant; great poise and finesse. 18.5