Jesús Barquín: Light amber. The nose offers nuts, caramelized sugar, an interesting biological background. It displays that unlikely balance of some Montilla Amontillados between biological finesse and the volume of the Pedro Ximénez variety. The finish is clean, very long, and expressive. Very good. 17

Andrew Jefford: Clear, deep orange-hazel. Sweet, creamy, vellum, and felt, white mushroom and fresh linen: a charming and beguiling Amontillado. Big on the palate, though very pure and poised in style; lots of basmati and umami to finish. Light, refined, pure, and true. Maybe it is not quite as layered as the very finest wines of all, but you couldn’t really fault this for purity and classicism, nor for wealth of flavor. 16.5

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep amber, with a pale green glint on the rim; softer and more low key on the nose than some with a savory-meaty quality underlying; slightly coarse and puckering on the palate, clean; in no way rustic but somehow lacks elegance in this context. 15