Jesús Barquín: Amber. The nose is blurred and wanting better definition, with notes of dry herbs, hazelnut, a tad medicinal. More volume than others in the palate (supporting my suspicion this may be from Montilla-Moriles), which is cleaner and more complex. The finish is biologically dominated, fresh and long. Could use more aromatic finesse. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Clear, light deep orange. Casky, sulfury, mucky: careless work here. On the palate, much the same insouciance is evident. The style itself will always command attention, but that alone is not enough. 9

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber, with a green glint; powerful, pungent aromas, savory-yeasty withatouch of Marmite (Twiglets!), burned around the edges; rich and savory, quite full initially, with a long savory-yeasty tang extending right the way through to the finish. An apéritif in itself! 16.5