Jesús Barquín: Deep chestnut to mahogany. Old and slightly rancio nose, with notes of burned match and sarsaparilla. The flavors come better focused, but there is a gentleness that I do not favor. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: A deep, deep walnut—the deepest of the tasting. You’d certainly guess Oloroso on a visual basis. Casky, sulfury, tired scents of grubby hessian: oh, dear. Murky, muddy flavor. Sorry, but no. 6

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep mahogany, withathin olive-green rim; wet-dog nose, obvious age but rather funky and casky, with distinct raisiny undertones; rich and rather raisiny initially, full, bone-dry, leading to a full, meaty finish. Obvious age and some charm, but rather soupy and lacking poise. 14