Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Soft, full, earthy mineral toast-and-red-fruit nose, with depth. Crisp and clean, energetic, so lively and pure. Long, compact, and zesty. 18.5

Simon Field: Initially rather reticent, the nose cedes notes of vanillin and soft red fruit. The palate is quite restrained, with the ripeness of fruit latent and poised, panther-like, beneath the complexity of an evolutionary inevitability. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Lovely soft, cushiony mousse supporting fine, crisp fruit that is still in its entirely fruit stage. This Champagne promises a long and productive life. 18.5