Essi Avellan: Deep lemon-gold. Stylishly restrained, fresh, floral nose, with creamy complexity. Zesty, fresh, vivacious, well-balanced palate. Mouthwatering, with good length and linearity. Really 2004 in character. 17.5

Simon Field: Delicate filigree bead and an attractive nose of baked apple, sourdough, and plum. En bouche, the wine is very complete, teasingly oxidative on the attack, but then with grip and authoritative structure to ensure that all tensions are resolved—with aplomb. 17

Tom Stevenson: Typically young and unready 2004. Needs time. Scored for drinking now. 16.5