Essi Avellan | Odd, murky aromatics on the first bottle. The second bottle is slightly better but still comes with oxidative tones. Dusty layers over appley fruit. Plump and little coarse on the tart, fruity palate. | 87

Simon Field | The nose is hard to fathom. Late-season apples might indicate a touch of oxidation, and yet there is also a hint of bonfire/incense/ petrichor, indicative of reduction, diametrically opposed to oxidation. The palate—only marginally, mind—favors the former assessment. Pleasant enough but a little diffuse at the end of the palate. | 87

Anthony Rose | Pale gold in color. This has the scent of ripe peach and apple, but more: an underlying leesy nuttiness à la white Burgundy. There’s a balanced, creamy mousse of bubbles, whose texture borders on the winey and grippy, that slight bitterness in itself bringing a nicely balanced freshness to the style, which is delightfully tangy and dry on the persistent finish. | 96