Essi Avellan: Deep lemon-gold. Overt, soft, appley nose, with some deliberate oxidation and a light, spicy character. Mouth-filling, smooth-textured, but with a slightly hollow mid-palate. Long and fruity but without complexity or finesse. 14

Simon Field: Approachable style, with a nose of brioche, nougat, and hazelnut. The palate is deceptively powerful, its immediate appeal of nectarine and soft spicy fruit underwritten with no shortage of success by a taut and finely buttressed frame, which will ensure a most satisfactory development in the medium term. 17.5

Tom Stevenson: Classic biscuity aromas, with an equally classic, crisp, lean structure. Perfectly balanced. Plenty of capacity for development in a good cellar over the next three years or so. 18.5