Essi Avellan: Deep lemon color. A charming nose, with beautiful fireworks: peach, marmalade, and orange blossom. Cheerful, playful palate full of energy. Zesty acidity, but it is in line with the crisp, pristine fruitiness of the wine. Seamless and soft, still coming with real drive. Pleasurable and building its way to the top. 18.5

Simon Field: Mute color but with quite impressive mousse; the nose is closed, but flint, acacia, and bath salts are evident; the palate is more extrovert, but only a little; one suspects that recent disgorgement masks the potential here. The ingredients are of a good quality, but they are not completely entwined. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Light to medium lemon color, with one of those noses that just exudes class and finesse, and so long, smooth, and succulent on the palate. 19 (29 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12%; 5.7g/l dosage; 40g/l)