Essi Avellan: Deep lemony. Overt, red-fruit nose with apple pie and gentle spiciness. Wide and winey. Long, succulent finish but rather one-dimensional. 15.5

Simon Field: An attractive nose of apple charlotte and pear confit, with a gentle oak undercurrent, leading to a palate where the wood holds greater sway. The spicy dried-fruit notes are now in the ascendant, but the underlying weight of fruit will out eventually—hopefully. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Absolutely delicious intensity of yeast-complexed fruit. So long. Rich, classic, and very classy. 19