Essi Avellan: Deep, bright, glossy cherry color. Rich, charming, coffeed, red-fruit nose, with nuances. Fine, gunpowdery complexity, aromas verging on reductive at this stage. Wide but energetic, a beautifully crafted wine of excellent purity and precision. Slightly foamy mousse but otherwise lovely. To keep still. 18

Simon Field: Russet color and gentle oxidative hints; the palate is poised with red fruit and soft herbs nicely entwined; firm on the finish and therefore food-friendly, but with no shortage of elegance. 16

Tom Stevenson: Almost too rich and too fruity. More weighty, needs finesse. 16