Essi Avellan: Deep golden. Red-fruit-dominant nose with pastry nuances. Full, with fluffy explosive mousse and loose structure. Big and bold, but not complex or refined. 16

Simon Field: Fuller than most in color, then a nose of apple blossom and hints of elderflower. The palate has concentration, as well as fine supporting acidity and a long, authoritative finish. Sui generis, for those in the oaky camp. 17

Tom Stevenson: An intensely flavored Champagne that is slightly oxidative, which detracts from its finesse. 16.5