Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Stylish, fragrant, lemony-floral, perfumy nose. Lovely, sweet toastiness, with vanilla. Contrastingly dry on the palate compared to the sweet nose, but pure and precise. Long, lean, zesty, and joyful. 17

Simon Field: Modest hue, then a stone-fruit nose with hints of rain-soaked pavement and orchard fruit. En bouche, Puritan austerity gently challenged by soft nectarine and a flinty balustrade. One feels a little short-changed, though the structure is fine. 15

Tom Stevenson: Light, fresh, zesty fruit and an elegant mousse. 16