Essi Avellan: Pale lemon-green. Soft, lemony-floral nose with sweet toasty character. Pungent palate with some sulfur. Linear and fruity, but a bit clumsy. 16

Simon Field: Imaginative nose, floral and slightly resinous, its élevage brought into sharper focus by a palate that is, quite understandably, somewhat closed and mute. The distinctive style will have a loyal and discerning following, although it would not be my first selection. 14

Tom Stevenson: A bit sulfidic at the moment, but that will get toasty, though the fruit will remain somewhat angular and unyielding. 16