Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Exotic nose, mirabelles and peaches. Rich, full-bodied, has heft and depth: a concentrated wine, with some force of personality. It may be slightly thick in texture, but it has ample fruit and steers clear of flabbiness. A touch overbearing but still impressive. Medium length. 17

Alex Hunt: Of all the California examples, this is the one that actually smells of Viognier, even if the apricots seem to be a bit charred on this occasion! But the palate delivers, too, with an admirable combination of fluidity and pith. This has a lightness of touch that complements the fruit and is a particularly drinkable example. 15

Andrew Jefford: Full gold. Very sweet, but slightly queasy scents, like vegetables that have just begun to rot a little. Some vanilla and nougat. It hits the “varietal” button but doesn’t do so with purity and finesse. Another rather simple, confectionary palate: soft, open, sweet-and-sour. I would struggle to drink this, sadly. 12.5