Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Very ripe peach-compote nose, quite floral, with some honeysuckle opulence. Broad, rich, and generous, but with sufficient acidity to keep the palate brisk and lifted. The slight minerality gives an almost sour tone to the finish, which adds complexity. The attack is sumptuous, but the finish is lean and persistent. An individual style that may not please everyone. 16.5

Alex Hunt: Very ripe aromas, at the apricot jam and spice end of the scale. The palate, too, shows a late-harvest style, with sweet apricot-compote flavors and appreciable bitterness. This is a full-throttle style that works on its own terms but fails to present the delicacy of the variety. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Full gold. A slightly fresher, livelier aromatic profile than some of its French peers: lots of citrus-grove fruit, lent zest by gingery spice. Even something a little vegetal or leafy, too, and a celery-like vegetal touch. On the palate, by contrast, I find this wine a little bit evident or obvious (the Viognier risk), very orangey, rather primary, and a little sweet-and-sour, too. Very fruity acidity almost makes the wine seem like a German from the deep south. Good fun, though. 14