Stephen Brook: Straw. Sweet apple-compote nose. Rich, broad, off-dry though far from sweet, quite concentrated and heady. A weighty style but marred by a touch of alcohol on the finish. There’s plenty of fruit here, but it lacks nuance and subtlety. Moderate length. 13.5

Alex Hunt: Now, I like flinty-bonfire sulfide aromas, but this is going a bit far, especially in an aromatic variety that should be able to offer some distinctive aroma of its own. There’s no mistaking the texture: This is actually textbook Viognier in terms of richness, lowish acid, pithy phenolics, and so on. It makes for a lovely glass of wine. But I wish the fruit had been allowed its full expression. 15

Andrew Jefford: Full green-gold. Some evident oak here, slightly elbowing the subtler varietal fragrances aside. Lush, smooth, plump, and full: Cadillac Viognier. But you know what? I think it’s great fun and an exuberant tribute to more exotic Rhône styles. Just a little alcoholic warmth on the finish, unusually for Virginia. Not the subtlest wine in the tasting, but Viognierissime. 15