Stephen Brook: Light straw. Lively lemony nose, attractive but atypical. Medium-bodied and lean; a pretty wine, but it lacks some heft and typicity, and although ripe, it still seems undernourished. Nimble but lacks persistence, though the freshness is admirable. 14.5

Alex Hunt: Distinctly flat, cardboardy aromas masking some attractive white-peach notes. The palate shows more life than the nose, with some fine fruit up front and a little bit of textural charm. Not surprisingly, the finish reverts to those flat, dusty tones again. 13

Andrew Jefford: Pale, misty green-gold. More floral than most of its Virginian peers: honeysuckle and gardenia. No evident fruit. On the palate, this is petite, shapely, lively, drinkable, poised, and fresh, yet utterly varietal: the true Virginian. All you could ask for, but the big challenge for the future is working further subtlety and refinement into this attractive but still simple profile. 15