Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, some turn. Spicy, herby aroma, palate a bit dispersed, a bit too wild fruit, a bit too austere, but very creditable, uncompromising. Give it a few years: could be a very good bottle. Slight concern about acidity. 16

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet core to tawny rim. Touch closed nose, with mature plum and prune fruit, cedarwood, and cloves. Mature; well balanced despite the exuberant tannins. Well made but a touch rustic. 16

Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Toasty black-fruit nose, quite stylish. Fresh attack, supple and sleek, quite concentrated and zesty, and has admirable vigor that carries the fruit along the palate. Tannic but not to excess, and lively on the finish. Chianti? Good length. 17.5