Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, neutral rim. Some charm of cherry and balsam on nose. Good but not exciting fruit on palate, typical of this wine, which is well made but not special. 14

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to thin tawny rim. Refined, complex nose, with small red fruits, orange peel, and hints of fennel seeds and Mediterranean herbs. Medium- to full-bodied palate, with tight fruit, refined tannins, and long clean finish. A classic red wine that will age gracefully. 18

Stephen Brook: Deep to very deep red. Dumb nose, though quite oaky and evidently ripe. Rich, suave, concentrated, but also a touch flat in texture, despite some assertive tannins. Medium-bodied, sleek and juicy, with enough acidity to give some freshness and bite. Youthful and chewy, but has vivid cherry fruit. Good length but doesn’t seem fully formed quite yet. 16.5