Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth with little signs of turn. Pronounced berry/Porty hit on nose. On the palate, the wine tastes “expensive” but more for muscle than for finesse. Tannins are a bit bitter, fruit trying to catch up. Certainly needs time in bottle. 15

Bruno Besa: Deep lively garnet to thin tawny rim. Restrained, slightly closed nose, with spices, smoked meat, and hints of vanilla. Medium body, withatouch of green tannins; not very long. 14.5

Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Dense, toasty, black-fruit nose, rather closed. Sleek attack, very concentrated, polished tannins, with drive and finesse. Despite the oak, the fruit comes through nicely, with some freshness on the finish. And yet it seems overall to be a touch too polished and well behaved and could do with a wilder edge to give more personality. Good length. 16.5