Jesús Barquín: Closed, concentrated nose of very ripe black fruit. Oak is more present on the palate, but not in terms of astringency: The tannins are not as drying as in other wines of this series. Good acidity and long finish marked by ripe fruit again. 15.5

Alex Hunt: Plummy fruit aromas with a fair bit of caramelly oak, and lots of baked banana. Simple, juicy, enjoyable, but with noticeable alcohol proving as assertive as any individual flavor, and not a great deal of flair. 14

Andrew Jefford: Deep opaque black-red in color. A little shy at first, yet the aromas gradually open up to reveal typical brooding dark fruits and floral finesse. There’s also just a hint of the fine trouser leather worn by supermodels, and the dark frankincense coveted by East Africans. Oak also, but finely incorporated. Concentrated, linear and long in the mouth, with the dark woodland fruits smoothed and shaped by ripe acidity and taut yet fine-grained and expressive tannins. Somber and fine, pure and long—and drinkable from the off. Sheeny grace and enchantment here: a Margaux of the Douro. How I’d love to drink this… And what a beautiful wine it is. Awesome! Magnificent! If you covet the fine wines of the world, buy this! 19.5