Andrew Jefford | There is more ruby and plum in the color of this wine than of many of its peers; dark-hued, though not quite opaque. Ripe, enticing depths: not simply currants but plums, too. Even spice: an exoticism not evident in the counter-tenor, pure-fruit style of many of its commune second- wine peers. Fragrant roots, moist spices. As the nose suggested, this wine has richer fruit than many of its commune second-wine peers. A little more tannin, too, though the relative opulence of fruit is what really stands out. A juicy, bustling yet serious glass of Margaux is on offer, so if it is coming in at a weekday price, worth consideration. Once again, it’s not a wine to keep but lovely to drink over the next winter or two. | 89

Michael Schuster | Faulty bottle; prematurely oxidized. | NS